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Há projetos que ficam na memória ou em algum caderno velho, aguardando a hora de serem realizados. Durante anos planejava ir ao Pantanal e nunca ia. Quando estava decidido, procurava uma forma de como chegar até lá; pesquisava o melhor lugar e as condições. Não era tão simples. De modo geral as propostas são mais ou menos assim: Chegada a Cuiabá de avião e traslado para algum lugar onde estão as pousadas, hotéis ou barcos de pesca.

São oferecidos barcos com ar-condicionado, restaurantes, suítes e especialistas na arte de fisgar imensos espécimes que vivem nas profundezas dos rios que cortam o Pantanal. O passeio não fica barato, sendo, portanto, só utilizado por pescadores que dispõem de recursos. Por outro lado, existe época em que não é permitida a pesca. Há, ainda, as pequenas pousadas que acolhem os mais modestos que, também gostam de se divertir. No final, eu percebia que era mais fácil viajar para outro lugar.

E assim fui pelo mundo, conhecendo lugares aos quais nunca mais voltarei. Vi de tudo, comi bem ou mal, dormi em pousadas, hotéis e, em algumas vezes, dormi em cabines de trem para ficar tranqüilo.  Cheguei a esses lugares de maneira eficiente, segura e a preços razoáveis.

Na semana passada, seguindo orientação de amigo, ligado ao meio-ambiente e à vida silvestre, que me indicou um hotel próximo a Poconé, cidade importante do estado do Mato Grosso, fundada em 1777, por Luiz de Albuquerque de Melo Pereira e Cáceres, quando lá se descobriu ouro. O nome tem origem numa tribo indígena que habitava a região.

Esse amigo me contou da experiência que teve quando se hospedou no hotel-escola do SESC que possui uma reserva particular de 106 mil hectares. Na verdade não é só um hotel-escola, é uma extraordinária mistura de lazer, cultura e aprendizado que abre a possibilidade, aos milhões de comerciários, de conhecer essa parte do Brasil que protege os recursos naturais com dedicação e profissionalismo.

Cheguei a Cuiabá com a vantagem de poder ficar uma hora a mais, pela diferença do fuso horário. O aeroporto está recebendo os puxadinhos que dominarão as instalações aeroportuárias na Copa do Mundo de 2014. Entrei numa van e segui até o hotel num percurso de duas horas de estrada , na maior parte do trecho, em boas condições. Na Estância Ecológica – SESC Patanal, os serviços estavam à altura dos hotéi s da sua  categoria: ambiente agradável, apartamentos limpos e arejados e com todos os equipamentamentos da melhor hotelaria. A diária é de pensão completa e variada. Muito bom.

Mas, não fui ao Pantanal para ficar observando as belezas do hotel. Fui para ver a natureza, e, por isso, reservei lugar nos passeios nas águas do rio Cuiabá.

Na espera do horário da programação, visitei o CIA-Centro de Interpretação Ambiental que mostra o bioma natural. É possível conhecer, através de vídeos e exposições com alta tecnologia, o trabalho de conservação e educação ambiental. Conheci o “borboletário” e o formigueiro que se equiparam à qualidade dos melhores do país.

A chamada se fez para a primeira aventura. Eram 15:30hs. Destino: Corixo do Moquém. Uma possante lancha nos aguardava. Colete, chapeú, água, protetor solar e repelente de insetos. Na saída, os jacarés fazem o espetáculo da natureza. São centenas às margens do rio Cuiabá. Nas árvores, pássaros miúdos ou majestosos, com seus cantos intermitentes. No final, a chegada do pôr-do-sol se mistura com os cantos dos pássaros e os clics das máquinas fotográficas.

À noite, o passeio noturno para ver os animais.  Jacarés, antas e capivaras são acompanhadas sob o foco da lanterna. Os galhos das árvores ficam cobertos de pássaros.

Na manhã seguinte, às 5hs da manhã, sai a lancha em direção ao alvorecer. O dia vai amanhecendo e, numa curva, surge o rei sol com o anúncio de um novo dia. As cores se multiplicam, os pássaros, em revoada, substituem as estrelas e encobrem a vermelhidão. É maravilhoso. E assim a mãe natureza nos convida a voltar.

Brasília, 05.09.2011.

Paulo Castelo Branco.

Publicado na revista Brasília em Dia - www.brasíliaemdia.com.br - 09.09.2011

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